Відео

That turned out pretty cool! Going to see if I can apply any of this (or at least use as reference) for a Revell NYC Hudson I'm getting soon.

I'm sorry, but I have to agree. The music is too loud. Can't hear what you are saying.

Is the version that came with the QSI SOUND

What did you use to replace the horn couplers on these Riverossi coaches ? Kaydee? Model # ? Thanks

I did the same thing to my Rivarossi Southern Crescent Limited coaches, but I body mounted Kadee couplers and I believe they were shelf head whisker couplers. The new #148 whisker couplers replace the old #5's and are much easier to deal with. Couplers that are mounted to the trucks are called talgo trucks and I hate 'em. I always cut them off, body mount Kadee's and turn the trucks around if they don't hit anything underneath the model. I think I had to add some shims between the coupler box (draft box) and the chassis as the couplers were a little high. Only 2 ways to adjust coupler height; either raise or lower the coupler or raise/lower the trucks. Raising or lowering trucks can be done several different ways. Sanding off some of the bolsters or adding a washer between the trucks and bolsters. Cheers from eastern TN

John Bellucci, I thought you were dead. Didn't you die of a drug overdose? Reincarnated as a model railroader. Just don't throw those old plastic couplers away. They can always be used in a gondola for scrap. I model the Central of Georgia railroad since I used to live in Jonesboro, GA. I bought a couple of Atlas GP-7s from another modeler in the Central of Georgia livery and he had never run them. When I got them they looked brand new and absolutely no wheel wear. I got them for $75.00 each. I've never paid more than $120.00 for an engine. I started collecting HO gauge back in the middle 80's but never really thought about modeling any certain railroad. Now things have changed and I'm getting an Atlas RS-3 in the Central of Georgia livery for Christmas along with a Kadee boxcar in the CofG livery. I also just got my very first brass diesel, a Fairbanks-Morse H-12-44 in the CofG livery. Back in the 80's I mostly bought Athearn engines and I hope the Atlas engines will perform as well as the Athearn ones as they are quite robust and keep on rolling. I recently started collecting Lionel 027 as I got the very same Lionel train set I had when I was a kid from my cousin. My train set got left behind in the attic when we moved from Hephzibah, GA. I couldn't believe my cousin had the exact same one and I sure was happy to get that set. I've now collected enough to make a 027 layout with 4 steam engines and 1 Texas Special diesel F-3. I think I have a couple dozen rolling stock to go with what I have. Oh yeah, I'm a DC guy only as I hate the sound of HO gauge DCC. I will probably end up weathering my brand new engines. I just don't like seeing pristine engines/rolling stock on the layout. Cheers from an ex-Georgian in eastern TN

Great tutorial. I just bought but my kit is cream colour. I don't have an air brush to give prime coat of flat black. What would you suggest?

How much could I pay you to do this to one of my few Hudson’s I would love to have mine looking this good

Little Mr. Gold passed away earlier this year ... he actually came by to say "Goodbye" 😿 ...

Hard to hear you over the music. Much too loud, obnoxious, and unnecessary!!!!

P.S. the plastic you find on bread loaves to secure the bag ends also makes good shims and you will never see the color once installed.

The purpose of the extended coupler box is so you can install it on the trucks. for the body mount, you could just as easily install the ordinary wisker #148 box just closer to the car ends. The truck interference problem you have now goes away.

I will never forget Joe, I had a shop in Grand Jct, Co in the 70's and 80's, completely self taught, and entered his competitions in Denver, I received many awards but never a Blue! Actually every mount I entered did get a ribbon. At one competition I cornered Joe and asked to personally tell where I was lacking! This was on a Mule Deer Head. He pointed out a few minor details which I immediately saw but he said one thing which stuck! told me don't worry about it you got it!!! I was usually 1 point off the blue each time. And, on that deer head I had sculpted and made the form and did the tanning etc. Hearing that from Joe was a highlight and coming from him it made me feel pretty good!!!!

I know it has been sometime but where did you get your vestibules at?

Looks fantastic nice job.

Just be glad that's a more recent "old" car as most of the older ones had talgo trucks (coupler mounted on the trucks). They are a little harder to do (make 'em body mounted) as I've done over 100 pieces of rolling stock. Oh, and by the way, you need to address some corrosion control on the weight of that boxcar. If not addressed, it can cause problems later in its life. Cheers from eastern TN

Kd make o gauge couplers for marx o gauge rolling stock

What size wheel sets are you using? 33” or 36”?

What if you want to keep the hand rails silver what do you do?

Nicely done! Beside learning a lot I really enjoyed it!

Great video, I guess this idea will work with ConCor Passenger cars too

Just wondering, how will these preform on tighter curves? Thank you

Thank you for sharing. Rapido makes something similar using a wand, but currently out of stock. They said theirs will be available this year. Thanks again.

Those eyes are more human than horse

thanks for posting this great tutorial! i am confused about the parts mentioning "dry painting" does this mean i need to get other paints ?as i found some online reffered to as "dry paints" thanks

It's from a Blue Box Athearn "Shake The Box" kit.

That looks like a Model Power car.

Thank you for posting

John I've got a bit of a problem with my BLI Hudson. Mine can just manage 4 coaches without traction tires. I tried putting a set on the drive wheels but the ones I got were too thick & life the wheels out of the rails' groove. What tires do you have on your Hudson?

Very good video. In one of my previous comments I said that you only need some styrene and normal kadee couplers and that you don't really need a #451 coupler. Well, I was wrong. For some coaches , like the dome cars, you indeed need a #451 coupler. Sorry...

Hey John, this may sound a little crazy might even get a laugh out of you. Do you know of an easy masterful way to shave the fur off of a deer?

I just oversprayed with dull coat to get the sheen off and added some weathering to highlight the details.

I hope I never have to change my rubber on my steam engine!

How do I find traction tires for my steam locomotive

Do you know of or if revell happened to put out the streamline shroud for this engine?

That would be the Queen City HiRailers

I love the video, but I have to correct you on the box. It is in fact supposed to move. That’s the point of that spring. The front and back movement you are seeing is from the coupler shank in the pocket on the mounting shaft. I’m doing these on my 86ft Pullman Auto Box cars.

Nice video! Although the music is a nice touch for the intro, it becomes monotonous hearing it throughout the rest of the video and takes away from what otherwise is an excellent tutorial.

Nice job with the detailed work and the video!

Hi John thanks for sharing this video it was very informative. When I replace the horn hooks I used Mchenry couplers which was a direct replacement. Unfortunately they're not very good once I added weight to the cars. Some day I'll be switching them out and doing this method again thanks for sharing.👍

Oh my, lookn GOOD, surely hope when you set up your height gauge next that boxcar, you ain't got any height problems, cause sadly your back to square 1, 🤯😱😭. Great VIDEO 👌☺️✌️

So that saves me mutilating my coach. Thanks.

Would've watched the entire vid but after 5-10 minutes of the same, too loud music, I hadda quit, sorry.

Very good video. Thank you very much for all the experience provided.

SO CUTE

You do excellent work, please keep it up

"When The Saints Go Marching In"

This video shows the WRONG way to install the Kadee 451 coupler. The instructions specifically state the gear box must be installed on a smooth flat surface - the video shows it forced to fit on the existing center sill from which the rivets aren't even scraped off. "Prepare the surface for mounting. A smooth flat surface is required for mounting the gearbox to the cars frame." The entire purpose of the #451 coupler is to allow the gear box to swing slightly from side to side with longer cars and return to center via the centering spring. "The gearbox should move freely and snap back to the centerline." The procedure demonstrated in this video completely defeats the swinging feature of this particular coupler.

Can I use the hook and loop on this too?

I am a total beginner, I'm trying to replace broken couplers on second hand playart locomotives. Problem is, I cannot figure out how to get the old ones, because there's a brown plastic shell holding the gears and the coupler. If I take that shell off, I'm worried I'll wreck the gears/motor. Any advice?